Cutting- gabmewts



semaine Nr raros.

ADAVIIIN.` SIPPERLY, OF TROY,`NEW'.YOItK.`

CUTTING GARMENTSL .To alli/whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, Devin N. SrrrnaLY, of thecity ofzTroy, in the county of Bensselaer and State of New `York,..have invented a new and useful improvementin the manner of measuring .and"drafting` coats to fit the various forms of men by means of an instrument termed a flexible protractor for coat measurement and drafting, which is described as follows, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making part of this specication.

Figures l, and 2, represent the manner in which the flexible protractor is placed upon a person.A Fig. 3 represents the mode of drafting, in which--` L is the flexible protractor, made of leather, or other flexible material, being three fourths of a circle; M, a button, turned of brass or other material, about one fourth of an inch in diameter, and riveted to the protractor-the center of graduation and pivot to which the tape measure K, is attached by means of a small cord or cat-gut, which also forms a part of said measure, turning freely in any direction so as to note the degree which it passes over in measuring.

J, is a leather strap, about 28 inches long and about three fourths of an inch wide, with oblong` holes, for the purpose of buttoning upon button S, and passing under the left arm, around the body to button R, the long end of protractor, and of suliicient length to reach around the body of the largest person, and to button closely tothe smallest person. Another strap, like strap J, about l2 or lll inches long, to button on button X, the short arm of protractor, and pass over the right shoulder to T, T, T, the long arm ofprotractor. The straps button on as represented in Figs. l and 2. The buttons, S, R, X, and T, T, T,`are made and put on the protractor, the sameway as but# ton M. The long arm of the protractor is about 17 inches long, and about 2 inches wide, more or less, and is graduated from 7 to 16 inches from pivot M, more or less. The protractor is graduated from one up to one hundred and thirty five degre-es, more or less, with a three inch radius more or less. All graduation stamped, or marked on in gold leaf, or other material. The short arm of the protractor is about 7 or 8 inches long,-

more or less, and about 2 inches wide at button X, more or less.

Implac-ing theflexiblemrotractor on a fperson, care should be taken to' have it"l press equally 4upon.thebody. `The shortarm of `the.protractor.should touch thearln `of the `Then draw a line from one back arm seam of sleeve to the other, across the back and dot with a piece of chalk, atA, Fig. l, and at I, the top edge of the long arm of the protractor at the back seam and at B, the hollow of the waist. Then take a common tape measure and commence at C, the top of the back, and pass down the back seam, and note down the distance to A, to I, to B, and to the length of the waist, severally; then t-he distance from A, to D, the width of the back; then measure withthe tape measure K, attached to the protractor. First, the distance to B, as represented in Fig. l. Second to I, where the long arm of the protractor crosses the back seam. Third, to A. Fourth to C, the top of the back. Fifth to E, Fig. 2, the top of the hipalso note down the degree in passing to E. Sixth to F, the bottom of the breast. Seventh to G, and note down the degree, which governs the height of the breast of the coat. Eighth to H, which governs the hollow of the neck or gorge. Ninth note down the degree in passing over the top of the shoulder to C, Fig. l. This last measure governs the pitchof the shoulder, according to the build of the man, or the position in which he stands, which is in Fig. 3, represented at 20 degre-es. Tenth pass over the `middle of the shoulder to A, Fig. l. `Eleventh over the lower edge of the shoulder to N, the top edge of the long arm of the protractor.

Proof measures from A, to `E and from B, to E. Then proceed to draft the back,according to the measures, O, Fig. 3, representing the back, P, the fore part of the coat. The width of the top and bottom of the back are governed by the fashion-as also the width of the vback scye. Then draw lines at right angles from the back seam, or edge, at A and at I. Then lay onthe protractorso as to correspond with the second measure, and the line drawn from I, which is represented on the long arm of protractor as 12-1; inches. First, measure from pivot M, to B. Second to I. Third to A, the middle hack U. The application of this last measure changes the position of hack O, to that of back U. Fourth to C. under back V, at top. Fifth to E, passing' over the 105th degree. Sixth to F. Seventh to G, passing' over the 44th degree, which governs the height of the breast of all coats that button up close under the chin. Eight to H. Ninth to C, back YV, passing' over `degree 20, which ,governs the pitch of the shoulder. Tenth to A, over the middle of the shoulder, Which governs the balance of the shoulder. Eleventh over the lower edge of the shoulder to N, back Y, which represents a line drawn at right angles from I back O. Balance measures, or proof measures from A, to E, and from B, to E.

The undersigned only claims the invention of- The flexible protractor and the application thereof, for coat measurement and drafting.

In testimony whereof, I, the said DAVID N. 'SIPPERLY, hereunto subscribe my name in the presence of the Witnesses Whose naines are hereto subscribed on the 20th day of June A. D. 1843.

DAVID N. SIPPERLY.

Signed in our presence:

A. G. JOHNSON,

CHARLES P. CLARK. 

